Around Tunis

The ancient quarter of Tunis, the medina, is exceptionally well preserved. The souks, covered with arches let in a dim light, teeming and bustling and overflowing with all sorts of merchandise: fabrics of a thousand colours, perfumes or precious jewels. The contrast with the peaceful neighbouring alleys is striking. White walls and blue ironwork, vaulted passageways, domes with green tiles, yellow doors framed with delicate patterns in carved stone… Knowing how to meander is important to fully appreciate the diversity of the medina.
On the modern side, the neighbourhoods surrounding Bourguiba avenue have their own special charm. At the foot of the buildings in the Art Nouveau or Art Deco style, a lively crowd squeezes into popular cafes, fashion boutiques, tramways and the rows of palm and fig trees. Visit the Central Market overflowing with groceries. Drink a soda on a terrace admiring the carved façade of the Municipal Theatre, inaugurated in 1902, and the statue of Ibn Khaldoun, the great thinker born in Tunis in the 14th century.

In the souks of the medina, you will find delicious snacks for when you are peckish: the famous golden and crispy ‘brik a l’œuf’, the small fricassé sandwich, a plate of kaftaji (summer vegetables with egg, crushed and fried) or a bowl of lablabi (spicy chickpea soup). When taking a seat in a former palace or fondouk (caravansary) converted into a restaurant, you will taste the best of Tunisian gastronomy: couscous with grouper, quince and rosebuds; the stuffed vegetable dish fondouk el ghalla; marqa h’loua the sweet and savoury lamb stew simmered with prunes and almonds… For dessert, try the pistachio cream bouza or the pastries perfumed with rosewater. For a more modern atmosphere, pay a visit to the new quarter of Berges du Lac. There you can eat sushi, seafood lasagna or a steak with blue cheese sauce while contemplating Lake Tunis.

Originally a small Berber city, Tunis gained in importance after the fall of its neighbour Carthage, until it became the capital of the country in the 11th century. Then, the Hafsid sultans, who reigned over a large part of the Maghreb, made it a jewel of a city by attracting the elite of Andalusia. After the Ottoman conquest, in the 16th century, Italian and Turkish influences gave a particular charm to the old quarters. In the medina, admire the Great Mosque Zitouna, from the 9th century, and the Turkish mosques decorated with marble. Visit the Tourbet el-Bey monument, which shelters the tombs of the Bey family, the elegant madrasahs from the 18th century, the palaces richly decorated with ceramic tiles and arabesques of carved plaster. Observe also the central souks, covered streets reserved for trade and crafts: jewellery, traditional embroidered dress and chéchia, the traditional red felt hats typical to Tunisia.