Around Sousse and Port El Kantaoui

Listed by UNESCO as an example of World Heritage, the Sousse medina ascends in layers along the hillside, facing the sea. It’s a pleasure to explore the alleyways with an atmosphere of a time long past, haggling in the souks. Dominated by the tall silhouette of the Khalef Tower, the old town has kept its medieval stone walls and numerous monuments that bear witness to its past as a stronghold: the Ribat, small fort and religious retreat, the fortress-like Great Mosque, the imposing Kasbah. Third biggest city in Tunisia, Sousse has a lively town centre with numerous places to shop and entertainment venues, and a superb seafront promenade. A few minutes away, explore the docks of the marina in Port El Kantaoui. Breathe in the air of the surrounding countryside: around the city can be found fields, villages and especially the vast olive groves that have given the region its wealth since ancient times.

Sousse is at the heart of a major olive growing region. In addition, olive oil is present in countless local recipes: salads, stewed dishes and pastries. A coastal town, Sousse will delight you with flavourful fish, squid and octopus dishes. If you prefer a more typical lamb dish, try the borghol sahli, dehulled and steamed wheat, accompanied by meat and vegetables. Finish with a mint tea accompanied by a maqroudh from Kairouan or another type of pastry. But in Sousse, an eclectic and open large city, you can also find excellent places to eat sushi, tapas or Italian specialities. A variety of restaurants await you in the tourist complex, in the city’s palaces, or on the quays of Port El Kantaoui with a view of the sailing boats.

In ancient times, the Sousse region was prosperous and famous for its magnificent mosaics, exhibited in the city’s archaeological museum. As for the medieval city, it grew up in the 9th century around the Ribat, a place of religious retreat for Sufi adepts (see p. 43). Close to Kairouan, the former capital of Tunisia, Sousse was a military port: from here the Muslim conquest of Sicily in 829 was launched. The Great Mosque, devoid of a minaret, is an excellent example of the architecture of this era, just like its perfectly preserved city walls, the Ribat and the Kasbah (fortress) dominated by the Khalef Tower. Another remarkable monument dating from the Middle Ages is the large sculpted and striped dome, Kobba el K’haoui, which is next to the Museum of Folk Art and Traditions. In the modern age, Sousse remains a major commercial port.